All Things Bodysurfing
George Freeth was a Hawaiian waterman who introduced a number of different water sports to California in the early 1900s. Those sports included surfing, bodysurfing, swimming, diving, and water polo. Freeth moved to Los Angeles from Waikiki in 1907. Shortly after his arrival, Freeth established himself as California’s best “surf-board rider” and instructor. Freeth was not the first Hawaiian to surf…
Not only is Mark Cunningham one of the best bodysurfers of all time, but he also eloquently defines his passion for the sport in a way most others cannot. When I am struggling to express what bodysurfing means to me, I simply fall back on my list of Mark Cunningham quotes—of which there are many. Here are my personal favorite…
Surf and Sea is a rare book about surfing published in 1965 by legendary waterman John M. Kelly Jr. Surf historian Matt Warshaw calls Surf and Sea, “the most intelligent, well-crafted book ever written on surfing.” Now a collector’s item, the book includes a chapter of particular interest to me titled “Body, Mat and Belly Board Surfing.” Luckily, I was…
I am thrilled to announce that I have started writing a book about bodysurfing! The title of the book is Shaped by Water: The Complete Guide to Bodysurfing. I look forward to the day when I can add my book to this ultimate list of bodysurfing resources. One of the most challenging chapters for me to write has been about…
We all know Kelly Slater is the best surfer in the world, but did you know he’s a really good bodysurfer too? That’s right! The eleven-time world champion has been bodysurfing his entire professional surfing career. In fact, Slater is featured in Jack Johnson’s 2004 film, A Brokedown Melody, bodysurfing the Banzai Pipeline with Mark Cunningham. (Slater can be seen…
My favorite thing about bodysurfing is its simplicity. Bodysurfing requires few pieces of equipment, making it one of the most affordable sports in the world. Equipment for bodysurfing has a much smaller carbon footprint than most other sports, especially compared to board-surfing. Unfortunately, the global surf industry’s traditional supply chain—full of carbon-rich petroleum products and toxic chemicals—creates more environmental harm…
When I set out to teach bodysurfing, I had no idea what I was doing. Prior to 2020, I had never taught bodysurfing and couldn’t find any information on how to do it. I had already been teaching board-surfing for several years, but bodysurfing was a whole different ballgame. Just because I was an experienced bodysurfer didn’t necessarily mean I…
Bodysurfing, or wave gliding, as the ancient Polynesians described it, is the simplest and purest form of surfing. Bodysurfing is thought to be the oldest version of wave riding, practiced by ocean-centered cultures for thousands of years. In fact, one of the earliest written accounts of bodysurfing came from Captain James Cook’s first voyage around the world on the HMS…
Although there are just a handful of books for bodysurfers, two great ones exist: The Plight of the Torpedo People (2012) and The Art of Wave Riding (1931). Whether you are a surfer, bodysurfer, or ocean enthusiast, I highly recommend you check these books out. The Plight of the Torpedo People (2012) The Plight of the Torpedo People is one…
Costa Rica is truly a bodysurfer’s paradise. The country’s “rich coast” features over 800 miles of coastline, hundreds of warm water surf breaks, and consistent swell year-round. The surprising thing is that there are hardly any bodysurfers here. Other than my friend Pablo, I have only bumped into a handful of Costa Rican bodysurfers over the years. Although I’ve bodysurfed…
Bodysurfing is the oldest and simplest form of wave riding, and prior to the invention of the surf leash in the 1970s, was once a prerequisite skill for any surfer swimming after a lost board post-wipeout. For centuries, anyone who surfed—by way of necessity—also knew how to bodysurf. As the purest form of surfing, bodysurfing is arguably the best way…
One of the great things about bodysurfing is that we can always get better at it. Wave riding is a lifelong pursuit, and the better we are, the more fun we have. Whether you are a beginner bodysurfer honing your technique in the white water, or an intermediate bodysurfer attempting to get barreled for the first time, here are four…