As a surfer, building confidence in the ocean is key to your safety and survival. The best way to build confidence is by spending more time in the ocean without a surfboard—swimming and bodysurfing.
Surfboards are great floatation devices. But what happens when you wipeout, break your leash, and have to swim back to the beach? Are you confident in your ability to do so?
Keep in mind that swimming and bodysurfing should be prerequisites for board surfing. All surfers must be able to swim and/or bodysurf back to shore after breaking a surf leash.
Unfortunately, many surfers today (especially beginners) overlook this simple fact, relying on lifeguards or fellow surfers to assist them to safety.
Too many surfers make the mistake of swimming as fast as they can back to the beach, tiring themselves out in the process. As an ocean lifeguard and surf coach, I’ve witnessed it happen many times, and have had to offer assistance to several distressed swimmers over the years.
After breaking your surf leash, it is crucial that you stay calm, conserve your energy, and take your time swimming back to shore. Easier said than done, I know, but this is where practice comes in.
How to build your confidence in the ocean
I recently hosted an ocean safety clinic for local surfers at my home break in Costa Rica (see photo above). The focus of the clinic was how to survive a broken leash scenario.
If you are a seasoned surfer reading this blog, the answer may seem obvious—just swim in. But you’d be surprised how many surfers are not confident in their swimming ability, especially in big surf.
Here are 3 drills we practiced during the clinic to improve confidence in the ocean:
If you are not a strong swimmer, do not go out deeper than where you can touch the seafloor. Practice these drills at a lifeguarded beach or with a friend who can offer assistance.
Face down floating drill
The face down floating drill helps you get comfortable holding your breath underwater in the presence of waves. This drill teaches you to stay calm underwater and listen/feel for the right time to resurface and take your next breath.
Listening to the oncoming waves is an important skill for building spacial and auditory awareness. The last thing you want to do after a long hold down is resurface when another wave is breaking on your head.
This drill will help you get in tune with the ocean and improve your breath holding ability.
- After taking a big breath, lay face down in shallow water and let the waves roll over you.
- Relax your body and listen closely to the oncoming walls of white water.
- Hold your breath as long as possible, slowly releasing air out your nostrils.
- Continue practicing for about five minutes.
Streamline bodysurfing in the white water
Bodysurfing is a great way to conserve energy when returning to shore after a broken leash, as it is more efficient to ride a wave than swim back to the beach.
This drill is the best way to improve your bodysurfing skills in a shallow, safe zone.
- Standing in thigh-deep water, look for a strong wall of white water approaching.
- Once you spot your wave, turn toward the shore and continue watching over your shoulder.
- Just before the wall of whitewater hits your backside, take a deep breath, bring your chest down to the water, and launch yourself out into the streamline position.
- In the streamline position, the goal is to keep your body rigid (like a surfboard) for maximum glide.
- Keep your face submerged underwater as the white water pushes you toward the beach.
- Continue practicing for about twenty minutes.
Swimming out to the lineup with swim fins
There is no better way to gain confidence in the ocean than swimming out past the breakers.
Swim fins are an essential piece of equipment for swimming out safely, as they elongate the foot and give you more power when treading water and kicking into breaking waves.
I recommend using DaFin swim fins, which are powerful and comfortable to wear, and are preferred by ocean lifeguards and bodysurfers around the world.
- Breast stroke or side stroke out toward the lineup with your head up, using a powerful frog kick to propel you forward.
- Maintain an easy pace and focus on deep, steady breathing.
- Swim as deep as you can under the approaching waves using a duck dive.
- Once you make it out past the breakers, float on your back to recover.
- Take some time to practice treading water using a “stair stepper” technique.
- Frog kick back to the beach on your side while constantly checking the waves over your shoulder.
- Allow the waves to push you to shore, perhaps bodysurfing a wave or two on the way in.
If you are truly dedicated to building more confidence in the ocean, join us in Costa Rica for our Essence of Bodysurfing Retreat.
